Source:Fleming-dickens-incidents/content
THE story of Charles Dickens' visit to Pittsburgh in March, 1842, which appeared in last Sunday's Gazette Times, included an account of the old Exchange Hotel where he was a guest. The picture of the hotel inserted last week was photographed from a well executed engraving on wood which headed the "Bill of Fare" at the complimentary banquet given a Pittsburgher of national fame, March 30, 1843. This was William Wallace Irwin, who served as Mayor of Pittsburgh in 1840 and as a member of congress from the Pittsburgh district 1841–1843, and who had just been appointed by President Tyler minister of the United States to Denmark, and was about to depart for Copenhagen.
This banquet was given exactly one year after Charles Dickens had stopped at the Exchange Hotel. Some additional description of the building can be derived from a study of the picture reproduced today for that purpose, and some additional testimony of the host's reputation: also something concerning this family of Irwins for we have several families of that name who figure largely in the early history of Pittsburgh.
The hotel picture shows its exterior, the interior having been described last week; the description taken from Harris' Business Directory of Pittsburgh for 1841. The building is shown four stories at the upper end and three at the Penn avenue end, with dormer windows on the roof. The sign, "Exchange" was on front of the third story portion above the porch, on which was the sign, "McKibben and Smith."
In the wing nearest Liberty street, there were four doors and four windows on the first floor, over which was the sign, "Stage and Canal Boat Offices." At the corner of Penn street, now avenue, there was shown a two-horse stage and a four-horse stage, the latter just leaving the hotel; a two-horse stage is also shown on the St. Clair street, or Sixth street front. Business was good—always good, judging from the long lists of guests published in the dailies of those days.
The banquet to Mr. Irwin was an event long remembered and fitting testimonial to a distinguished citizen.
As the story of this well kept and popular hotel always includes mention of "Charles Dickens and lady of London, England," some additional facts of the couple's trip to and from Pittsburgh are appended to complete the account of his journeyings in this region. These facts were brought to light by further research, which developed much other interesting matter of an historical nature, hence instructive also.
Dickens wrote his friend, John Forster, from Boston:
"I have a secretary whom I take with me. He is a young man by the name of "Q;" was strongly recommended to me; is most modest, obliging, silent and willing, and does his work well. He boards and lodges at my expense when we travel and his salary is $10 per month, or about 2 pounds five of our English money."
Not a munificent salary, but probably such as was paid in those days. We can infer that "Q" was not overworked. Dickens mentions him in other letters as "Mr. Q."
This young man was George W. Putnam of Salem, Mass., whom Dickens engaged in Boston. Shortly after Mr. Dickens' death in 1870, Mr. Putnam penned two articles which were published in the Atlantic Monthly of that year under the heading "Four Months With Charles Dickens During His First Visit to America, by His Secretary."
This magazine enables us to ascertain some additional facts of the journey of the Dickenses from Harrisburg to Pittsburgh via the Pennsylvania Canal and the Portage Railroad, and these details are interesting. Of course, Mr. William Glyde Wilkins, our townsman, knew of these articles and has given them mention in his book, "Charles Dickens in America."
In the list of arrivals at the Exchange Hotel for March 28–29, 1842, the name "George W. Putnam, Boston, Mass.," occurs, preceding that of "Charles Dickens and Lady, England." in the list the next day the entry occurs, "Charles Dickens and Lady, London, England." Why it was repeated is not apparent, unless for the free advertising afforded by the publication of the lists.
Mr. Putnam told of their canal boat journey. It was early in the boating season, the canal not long opened by reason of the thawing of the ice that usually closed it all winter. The captain of the canal boat had courteously given up his own private cabin at the bow of the boat to Mr. and Mrs. Dickens. This room, though small, made the journey unusually comfortable for them. The mode of travel was quite new to the distinguished tourists. Mr. Putnam wrote:
The scarcely perceptible motion of the boat and the perfect quiet of the surroundings was in delightful contrast with the noise, turmoil and excitement of the past few weeks. As the boat went on the number of passengers increased, and soon the little deck, or cabin top, became well covered with trunks and baggage. Here the passengers assembled and sat upon the trunks, but at intervals the helmsman' [sic] cry, "Bridge! Low bridge!" would come, and then those who desired to save their brains stooped low till the bridge was passed.
In front of the cabin at the bow of the boat was a little deck space with room for a couple of chairs, and here Mr. and Mrs. Dickens sat for hours, greatly enjoying the absolute stillness of the scene. As evening came on the scenery became more wild and grand, for we were approaching the "spurs of the Alleghenies," and occasionally the helmsman would take his Kent bugle and wake the echoes of the solitudes.
Excepting when out on the towpath for exercise, Mr. Dickens spent most of his time while on the canal sitting by the side of his wife, reading or conversing. The country through which we were passing was now exceedingly picturesque. The log cabins of the settlers in that almost untrodden region, the little groups of houses which constituted the towns, the homes of the "locktenders" and everything around us was so unlike anything in the old country that our travelers were never weary. Each turn of the canal brought out new combinations of scenery; and when night came on and the moon rose over the mountains, the prospect became still more charming and novel.
An amusing incident of the trip was when a stranger, after following Mr. Dickens several times up and down the deck, finally came to him, and, feeling the Astrachan goatskin coat which Mr. Dickens wore, asked what it was, how much it cost and many more questions. Mr. Dickens was amused at the man's curiosity, and in a kind way answered all the questions, smiling all the time at the earnestness of the man and his perfect self-complacency.
On leaving the boat we took the cars up the inclined planes of the Alleghenies and, reaching the summit, soon began the descent on the other side. We had a very early breakfast that morning and long before noon began to be hungry. There was no station where we could obtain refreshments, but after a long suspense we heard about the middle of the afternoon we would reach the hotel to dine.
The time at last arrived, and the moment the train stopped we hurried to the hotel. A glance at the table showed what was likely to be our fare; so I managed to find good places for Mr. and Mrs. Dickens, close by what seemed to be a small dish of veal. They succeeded in getting a small portion of bread and butter and were thankful, as they indeed and those near the 'veal' had good reason to be, for the mass of the hungry passengers got little or nothing. There was a big dish of something on the table, and the long-nosed landlord walked round and round the table asking the starving passengers through his nose if they would "have some of the potpie—some of the potpie."
The "potpie" was examined and generally refused. A few, however, had the temerity to taste it. It was a mass of bacon rinds, pork scraps, bits of gristle and potatoes and such odds and ends as usually go into the waste tubs and which probably had been accumulating for several weeks. The hungry passengers took very little of it, preferring to pay for it rather than eat it. The last I saw of that landlord he was walking round the half-deserted table with the dish in his hands asking the guests if they would "have some of the potpie—some of the potpie."
In due time we arrived at Pittsburgh and took rooms at the Exchange Hotel. The accommodations were excellent, and a few days were spent in visiting the objects of interest in and around the city and in receiving visitors and making visits.
On April 1 we left Pittsburgh on board the steamer Messenger for Cincinnati.
The passage down the Ohio was full of interest for the Dickenses. They had never experienced anything like it in their journeyings. Capt. Baird of the "Messenger" politely gave them a pleasant stateroom, Mr. Putnam relates, towards the stern of the boat, and when the sun was hot they sat there on the little gallery outside and enjoyed the quiet of the scene.
When evening came, as was their custom at home, the novelist and his wife would "take exercise" on the hurricane deck, sometimes walking there for several hours. During the day they would sit outside of their stateroom, seemingly enjoying the constant change of scenery as the boat proceeded down the "beautiful river."
Mr. Dickens maintained throughout his travels a constant and large correspondence with his friends in England and would often burst out laughing when writing them, tickled at his own fun as he penned it. Mrs. Dickens would join in the laugh when shown the "joke."
When the boat would land at a river town, word was passed by the passengers that "Boz" was on board, and there was sure to be a crowd on the bank or wharf earnestly looking for Boz.
"Many gentlemen," Mr. Putnam said, "hastened on board to get a glimpse of the great novelist."
In the published letters of Dickens there are none dated from Pittsburgh, the nearest date is March 22, from Baltimore. His brief account in his "American Notes" is all the record we have from his pen relating to his journey and stay here.
The Pittsburgh papers of 1842–1843, and perhaps later, contain long advertisements of Evans' safety guard," a contrivance now so well known and common as to escape notice. Isaac Harris, in his General Business Directory of Pittsburgh for 1840–41 has these lines:
EVANS, Cadwallader, founder and plough manufacturer and patentee of Evans' patent safety valves for Steam Boilers, corner of Water street and Chancery lane.
The newspapers [sic] ads of that period contained a diagram of the valve, many testimonials and much explanation.
Slight wonder Dickens was nervous. Explosions of boilers on the Western rivers were common. Dickens undoubtedly read the newspapers, if for no other reason than to learn what was said about him, and while in Pittsburgh he must have learned the details of the explosion on the steamboat Creole, which blew up March 22, 1842, at the mouth of the Red River, with a score of lives lost; hence his timidity, which was shared by his wife.
Charles B. Scully, an attorney of Pittsburgh of those years, in his account of meeting "Dickens and Lady" at the Exchange Hotel, mentions Mr. Putnam, to whom he gave his name before being introduced ot the novelist and his wife. It was Mr. Scully who advised traveling on a boat equipped with Evans' valves, and this induced the Dickens party to select the Messenger, as the advertisements showed that boat's name in Evans' lists. This was a new boat, of about 300 tons, built in Pittsburgh in 1841, and one that became celebrated on the Western rivers. The Messenger had arrived in Pittsburgh, March 26, 1842.
In the 40s The Morning Chronicle was published at 85 Fourth street, now avenue, which was below Wood street, on the right going down. In 1843 W. H. Whitney was the sole proprietor. We find this local item in his issue of Saturday, April 1, 1843. The banquet was on Thursday night preceding. It heads a column entitled "Things About Town," with a sub-head, "The Dinner to Mr. Irwin," and reads:
"The festival at the Exchange Hotel must have been exceedingly gratifying to Mr. Irwin and his friends.
"Our friends of the Exchange Hotel, Messrs. McKibben and Smith, whose skill as caterers is so favorably known, set out a splendid table and nearly 200 people sat down to enjoy the feast. The bill of fare was indeed most excellent. Everybody seemed to be in good humor and everybody seemed glad to see the feeling of confidence and respect for Mr. Irwin which was expressed by so general a gathering of his friends.
"We hope to have a full account of the proceedings, with toasts, speeches, etc., for Monday's paper."
The account hoped for did not appear. On April 4 Mr. Whitney furnished this item in his news columns:
"DEPARTURE OF MR. IRWIN.
"This gentleman left the city yesterday on board the steamer Oella for Brownsville on his way to Denmark. A large concourse of citizens lined the wharf to witness his departure. He was accompanied by a company of German cavalry and when the boat letf [sic] the wharf the cheers of the bystanders bore testimony to the respect and gratitude which the people of the Iron City felt toward Mr. Irwin for the important services which he has rendered them. Wherever he may go the best wishes of the people he has so ably represented at Washington will attend him."
We notice that this is news and editorial mixed. Also note certain forms of expression always used in those days. Passengers always "went on board" and the wharf was always "lined" whenever any great one came or went.
The menu and wine list under the picture of the Exchange Hotel is good reading in these days of high food prices. There was on the bill turtle soup, boiled salmon, fresh shad, Baltimore rock fish, boiled ham, corn beef, tongue, chicken and rice sauce, roast beef and roast veal, turkey, chicken, mutton, pigs, ducks, wild turkey, beef a la mode and mutton chops.
Deserts [sic] were calf's foot jelly, blanc mange, ice cream, French creams, brandy jelly, almonds, raisins, oranges and apples. Pastry list included Victoria pudding, lemon pudding, mince pie, apple pie, quince puffs, "spunge" cake and charlotte russe. The wine list was long and imposing, champagne, claret, port, sherry, hock, German lieb fraumilch, Madeira, Burgundy and Sauterne. The prices were about $2 a bottle, presumably quarts, although some brands were double that amount. A note at the bottom of the bill stated the "servants are provided with pencils to take orders for wines." Truly admirable foresight.
The Honorable William Wallace Irwin, as he was propertly [sic] called in those days, was the son of John and Agnes Farquhar Irwin, and was born in Pittsburgh in 1806. John Irwin was born in County Tyrone, Ireland, in 1770 and was brought to the United states when 2 years old, his parents settling in Carlisle, Pa. John Irwin at the age of 18 came to Pittsburgh and soon afterward opened the first drygoods store in the town, about Market and Fourth streets, the latter now Fourth avenue. He married Agnes Farquhar of Carlisle. Mr. Irwin is given in Riddle's Directory of Pittsburgh, 1815, as "Gentleman, retired, north side of Fourth avenue, between Market and Wood streets." He died in Pittsburgh in 1830.
His son, William Wallace, became a lawyer and one of the leading members of the bar of Allegheny county. In politics he was a Whig, in late life a Democrat. He died in Pittsburgh in September, 1856. His last residence was at old number 159 Center avenue, aftewards the residence of Dr. A. Patrick, C. Hanson Love and Edward Oxnard, successively. The building is still standing. The old home of Mr. Irwin was on Penn avenue, near Evans alley, next door to the present Pittsburgh Club.
A distinguished son of William W. Irwin was Admiral John Irwin, U. S. N., who entered the Navy in 1847 as a midshipman at the age of 15, serving through all the grades up to rear admiral and with distinction during the Civil War. He retired in 1894, and as his name does not appear on the retired list after 1901 it is to be presumed he died about that time.
William Irwin Mustin, a well-known Pittsburgher, is a grandson of William Wallace Irwin, the son of James G. Mustin and Frances Mason Irwin Mustin. Through the kindness of Mrs. Mustin we are enabled to present the picture of the old Exchange Hotel, the "bill of fare" of the memorable banquet having been preserved in the Irwin family and coming down to Mr. Mustin.
John D. Mahon, a celebrated attorney of Pittsburgh and contemporary of William W. Irwin, was his brother-in-law, having married a daughter of John Irwin, Sr. Mr. Mahon came to Pittsburgh from Carlisle. A daughter, Miss Agnes Irwin Mahon, now resides in Carlisle, and was a recent visitor in Pittsburgh. We have Mahon avenue on the "Hill" named for the family. The Mahon mansion, long the residence of Alexander H. Miller, was on the elevation on Center avenue opposite Erin street. It was razed within the last decade. The Irwin family owned several blocks of land on the opposite side of the street, as old plans and deeds show.
Dickens, in his "American Notes," in his account of his canal journey, mentions the many lines of boats, and names the "Pioneer Line." This was a slow boat line, one of those owned and operated by D. Leech & Co. of Pittsburgh, one of the great canal boat firms, the same that founded and gave name to the town of Leechburg. This firm owned and operated several lines of boats. It appears from standing advertisements in The Gazette of canal days that the Leeches also operated the Western Transportation Company and the Pennsylvania Packet Boat Company boats, both fast lines. The time of the latter's boats to Philadelphia was advertised as three and one-half days.
Of course this meant passengers transferred to the railroad when reached, generally at Columbia, in Lancaster County. This advertisement of the "Pioneer Line" is found in The Gazette among other canal ads. A crude cut of a canal boat in operation surmounts such advertisements, the title of the line only displayed. The Leech firm maintained offices in the Monongahela House, the Exchange Hotel and at the Canal Basin at Liberty and what is now Eleventh street.
The advertisement reads:
This line is particularly calculated for families travling with large quantities of extra baggage. The cabins are large and comfortably furnished and the price of passage lower than any other packet line on the canal. Those to whom economy is an object will find it to their advantage to travel by this line. Time of passage, 4½ days. For passage apply to D. Leech & Co., agents.
Several persons apparently have doubted the statement made last week that the old canal tunnel in Pittsburgh passes under The Gazette Times Building. If it does not it passes under the street in front of the building, hence Tunnel street. The canal tunnel was never filled up but walled up at the ends by the Panhandle Railroad engineers when building the railroad tunnel, which is entirely distinct, though it crosses the old tunnel at one point. Some old people say the canal tunnel was enlarged at several points for the purposes of railroad. This is a matter of history on which evidence will have to be taken.
Anyhow the tunnel on the Western division of the canal was between Saltsburg and Blairsville, giving name to the village of Tunnelton. The Pittsburgh tunnel was not regarded as a part of the division, being a failure for the purposes intended, to connect the two rivers for the passage of boats. The tunnel served merely as an outlet for surplus water.
We have another, and hitherto undiscovered, testimonial to the fame of the old Exchange Hotel and the agreeable hosts who were proprietors.
A rare antique is a little book of 100 pages, in size 5½ × 3 inches, entitled "A Pleasant Peregrination Through the Prettiest Parts of Pennsylvania Performed by Peregrine Prolix," in 1835. This man was P. H. Nicklin. He was traveling by stage from Bedford and recites his entrance into Pittsburgh and his stop, as follows:
Our coach arrived at the Exchange at half past 7 p. m., where we took up our quarters and found the accommodations were good. We had been 16 hours travelling 67 miles over a hard and rough road without stopping to dine, and being bruised, tired and hungry, were delighted to find ourselves in a snug parlor where we could sit and eat. After sufficiently profiting by these facilities our felicity was made complete by the enjoyment of one of the greatest blessings that can fall to tired humanity, a good night's rest in a comfortable bed.
Pittsburgh is full of good things in the eating and drinking way, but it requires much ingenuity to get them down your throats unsophisticated, with smoke and coal dust. If a sheet of paper lie upon your desk for one half hour you may write on it with your finger end through the thin stratum of coal dust that has settled upon it during the interval.
Pittsburgh certainly had some reputation for smoke in those days—and for several decades before and later—"but not now."
